Copper Penny Mod Clone Review
Copper mods are all the rage right now in the hardcore vaping community, and the Copper Penny mod from Mad Industries is one of the most talked about. However, at $200 a piece, the originals are very expensive, not to mention that only a limited number of mods were created. For vapers who can’t afford to shell out that kind of money on a mechanical mod, even one from a legendary motorcycle wheel maker like Mad Industries, there are a variety of cheaper Chinese clones to choose from.
I got my Copper Penny mod clone from Hawk Vapes, a wholesale vaping supply company in Hong Kong, and I have to tell you, the word “clone” is aptly used in its case. The mod is virtually identical to the original in both looks and functionality, and at $21.50 (wholesale price) it’s simply a must-buy. The laser-engraved Mad Industries logo on the tube is etched a bit deeper on the authentic mod, and the threads are slightly smoother, but other than that you’ll have a tough time finding any distinguishable differences on the clone.
The Copper Penny clone came in an unimpressive cardboard box, unlike the engraved metal box that the original comes in, but that was probably the only disappointing thing about this mod. Oh, and the fact that it doesn’t come with any kind of manual or instructions, which will definitely leave anyone who is unfamiliar with mechanical mods scratching their head. But that’s probably for the best, since mech mods in general carry a certain degree of risk and messing with them without a firm grasp of Ohm’s Law and battery safety is a recipe for disaster.
In terms of looks, the Copper Penny is pretty straightforward – apart from the Mad Industries logo and the signature US penny firing button, it’s just a cylindrical piece of copper. It’s as simple as that, but it’s this simplicity that makes mechanical mods special. No fancy LED buttons or screens, no internal circuit boards, just an electrical circuit and huge plumes of vapor.
The copper tube accommodates a single 18650 battery – I highly recommend you only use high-quality IMR batteries with mechanical mods – which is guaranteed not to rattle inside thanks to an adjustable pin that also ensures that any rebuildable atomizer or tank you opt for will sit flush on the mod. It was a bit tricky to figure out why the copper Hobo RDA that was supplied by Hawk Vape didn’t seem to fit very well, although it seemed almost made for the Copper Penny, but once I discovered the adjustable pin, it all made sense. It’s just a very effective way to adjust to various battery styles.
But it’s the switch that really sets this mod apart from any other copper mech. The original Mad Industries mod actually has a real penny for a firing button, while the clone I got has, well, a penny clone. Which, to be honest is very finely cut and looks just as good as the authentic coin. The switch features a locking ring that allows you to place the mod on any surface or put it in your pocket without the fear of disastrous consequences. While locked, the button simply won’t fire.
Here’s where things get a bit weird, though. While the locking ring has a standard threading, the whole firing mechanism is reverse threaded, meaning you have to turn it clockwise to detach it. That doesn’t sound like a very big deal, but it can become very frustrating until you get used to it. The problem is that whenever you’re trying to unlock the firing button, you start to detach the whole mechanism, and when you’re trying to lock the mod, and when you try to screw it back on, you end up locking the penny button again. And the two threadings are so close to each other, handling one of them without accidentally activating the other is pretty tricky.
The penny button itself is spring-operated, and despite several complaints I’ve read about it coming off the mod, I have been using mine for about three weeks now, and it’s still firmly attached. The stainless steel spring however shows signs of wearing, which is not surprising, considering how flimsy it looks. Magnets would have probably been a better option, but at least you can change the spring with a sturdier one when the loss of tension becomes too noticeable.
In terms of performance, the Copper Penny mod is indeed in a class of its own. This was the first copper mechanical mod I’ve ever used, and to tell you the truth, I never really understood what all the fuss was about. With so many tried and true regulated mods and stainless steel mech mods out there, I just didn’t feel that I was missing out on. I was wrong. Even with one modest 1 ohm atomizer coil, this thing delivered plumes of vapor that I just never got from any of my other vaporizers. And trust me, I have a sizable collection.
Apparently, it’s all in the metal. Copper may be softer, but, as we all know, it’s a great electricity conductor. Other mods use copper contacts as well, for this exact reason, but having a copper body really makes all the difference, since it completes the circuit from the negative connection at the atomizer to the negative of the battery. The lower internal resistance of the Copper Penny and any other copper mod for that matter, makes it more efficient than any other stainless steel mod.
Copper does have a big disadvantage, however – it’s got a very low resistance to wear and tear. The contacts and threads have to be cleaned frequently to keep the current flowing smoothly for maximum performance, and the body is very susceptible to patina buildup unless polished every single day, two days at the most. Since copper is a softer metal, dropping it on a hard surface is sure to leave a dent as well, so take when handling it.
All things considered, the Copper Penny mod clone is worth every penny (pun intended)! It has its flaws, but I have yet to find a vaporizer that’s perfect in every way, and its minimalist design and unmatched performance more than make up for them.
Please keep in mind that mechanical mods like the Copper Penny can be very dangerous in the wrong hands. They have no built-in safety features to prevent life-threatening things like short-circuit or battery over-discharge, so unless you have a firm understanding of battery safety, amperage limits and resistance, DON’T USE ONE!
